El Greco Beckons

The last time I was in Crete was when I was in my late twenties and I was looking forward to getting back.

13062276_10205628089454457_7664300077535047838_nI chose Spinalonga as our first stop – Rod described it as “fascinating to sail into the enclosed lagoon watching the sea bottom slip past a few metres under the keel.”.

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Equally fascinating was the large Venetian fortress that guarded the entrance. Below the castle was Greece’s last leper colony. What a picturesque spot.


You can anchor just about anywhere in the lagoon and we choose to anchor off the main town of Elounda, but found the town a little boring. In hindsight we should have anchored nearer the fortress of the cute town of Plaka (where the water was clearer for swimming) – but never mind, we had a great dingy tour of the bay and ended up at a great lunch spot in Plaka (after the obligatory girls shopping expedition!), overlooking the Venetian fortress. This was after we’d dingied over to the fortress and had a fascinating wander around the whole island. The leper colony was interesting as were the Ottoman houses that immediately predated the colony. And the fortress walls went right around the island, and up to its top, making for some great photos.

13103489_10205628134455582_7813711860978785498_n Next day it was off to Iraklion, Crete’s capital. Again, the wind was on our nose (but light) – the prevailing winds are from West to East and we were travelling West against them – them’s the breaks. We got to Iraklion at lunchtime and passed a cruise ship on the way out of the harbour. We continued to the end near the Venetian fort, where the rather full marina was and tried to raise someone, anyone to point us in the right direction. In the end we gave up and found a spot outside the marina in front of the Port Police. Very convenient, except for the ferry wash, which one high-speed ferry in particular caused havoc with our fenders and hull as we got black everywhere from the large tires that we parked up against. We put on a couple of our spring lines and   that seemed to help a little.

13083225_10205628159256202_6171627207019613728_n13062483_10205628127495408_3390841307935804850_nIraklion has a bit of a reputation as being unattractive but we actually quite liked its old city with its lively bar and restaurant scene. We even got to see a live band there that weren’t bad.



But before we hit the bars and restaurants we caught a taxi out to Knossos, the ancient Minoan Palace. I remember being blown away by it in my twenties, but this time I was quite annoyed by the reconstruction effort that Sir Arthur Evans took using copious amounts of concrete and a few other liberties. Basically it lacked authenticity and you never could work out what was real and what was reconstructed. Still it gives you a good idea of what a magnificent palace it must have been and is still worth a look.

13082755_10205628166816391_6811584102746076209_nBack in a taxi, we headed to the museum, which was very impressive. Lots of good stuff from Knossos and other Minoan archeological digs. Lots of pots and urns. It was good to see some of those iconic pieces of art and sculpture from ancient Minoan times, as well as becoming re-acquainted with the myths from those times.

The museum is right outside the old city, so we made our way slowly back to the boat, via a lot of detours into the various shops that lined the marble cobblestones.


Next day, Joe and Barbara hopped onto a high speed ferry to Santorini, 50nm away. Too close to miss. They had a great time, visiting the Island’s hotspots.

13096267_10205628135655612_4864219924975394520_nThe following day, it was our last sail (motor) with Joe and Barbara up to Rethymno, with its attractive old town and cute Venetian harbour. We headed for the “marina”, a glorified harbour with a few pontoons. It was reasonably expensive by Greek standards, but most of the cost was in electricity and water, so once we declined these it wasn’t too bad.


Once safely moored, we headed into town, about a 15 minute walk around the harbour and headed for the venetian fortress. We paid our entry fee and had a nice wander around. The extensive walls were the highlight, overlooking the clear waters of the Med. There were a few interesting building inside including a wonderful domed mosque.

Then it was back into the old city in time for 5.30pm opening. Joe and I lasted for a while before retiring to one of the great sea-side bars to sample some Greek beer. The girls eventually found us and we all wandered back to the boat before going out on the town for a great last meal with Joe and Barbara before they left.


For their last day, we had decided to rent a car and head off on a tour de Crete, before their evening flight to Athens. Crete is a wonderful island to drive around. We first headed for ruins of Phaistos, Crete’s second most important Minoan palace city after Knossos. Its built on a hilltop, providing brilliant views over the plains below. It was worth a wander around, seeing Minoan ruins from the first European civilization left largely as they found them.

13083300_10205628203377305_7141850048658629056_nThen it was time to head to the beach for lunch. Matala is a cool beach side town with lots of caves on a cliff face that were frequented by hippies in the good old days. The beach looked pretty good but unfortunately the weather had turned bad so no swimming today.

Lunch over, Dee decided that we should see Agios Nikolaos. Something we should have done via a short taxi ride when we were in Spinalonga. So off we went on a wonderful drive across the middle of Crete to the North East coast. Crete is very lush and green and lots of things grow there. Quite different to the other islands.

13076813_10205628204257327_2864935565671605964_n We parked by the marina and had a sticky beak at what looks like a great place to winter at. Then we walked into town and checked out the lake that is joined to the fishing harbour by a narrow channel. Very cutesy. There were some good little walking streets that attracted the girls like honey, but not quite enough time for us boys to do what we do best when shopping is mentioned – retreat to one of the great bars around the harbour and lake. Oh well.

Then it was time to head to the airport. But first, some street food at Souvlaki-opoli – what a great name. We’d been to a lot of great restaurants with Barbara and Joe but somehow we hadn’t indulged them in a souvlaki or a gyro.

Mission completed, it was time to drop them off for their flight out to Athens from Iraklion. We thoroughly abmolished them for not spending enough time on La Mischief – 2 weeks was clearly not enough. And then they were off – back to the USA.

We got back to Rethymno to find a storm had ripped through the place. Next day the security guy from the “marina” came to complain that La Mischief was too heavy for the finger jetty we were tied up to. We’d tied up there after being told it was the visitors jetty and nobody had said anything for two days. Anyway the wind started blowing in the other direction (just as hard) and everyone seemed happy.

13094236_10205628256658637_6992111714090012869_n   It was clear we weren’t going anywhere for a day or so we spent the next day doing boat chores and looking for bits and pieces in town. Once we worked out we could go anywhere the next day as well, we set about organizing a trip to Samaria Gorge. George, our hire car guy talked us into hiring a car (of course) and taking the boat trip both ways, then walking in and out of the bottom part of the gorge. The alternative was to take a bus to the top of the gorge and walk down 16kms to the bottom and catch the same boat out. Anyway by the time we’d to’d and fro’d it was too late to book the organised tour so we were stuck with hire car option.13015431_10205628349500958_5716045748926314119_n

13043741_10205628281859267_1836372841578544404_nThis turned out to be an interesting option. We needed to drive over to the south coast and catch the 10.30am ferry from Sfakia to Agios Roumeli (which is inaccessible by road). George had said that the ferry would take 30 minutes, we didn’t really get there until 12 noon. Then we walked 5 kms in 2 hours up from the bottom into the gorge, turned around and walked back. The plus side of this is that we spent all our time in the most beautiful part of the gorge (evidently), but the down side was that we had to rush and spent too much time on a boat and a car and not enough of our time walking the gorge. If we had our others, we would do it with a tour that drops us at the top of the gorge so we could have a leisurely 16km walk down. Anyway the gorge was absolutely spectacular and a must do for Crete. The boat trip back to the car was good also calling in at places such as the pretty little town of Loutro, which you can only get to by boat.



With Samaria Gorge down it was time to hit the water again and head around to Hania. The wind and swell had died by now and it was a pleasant little motor sail (against the wind of course) to Hania. Hania turned out to be the pick of the harbours in Crete, a beautiful Venetian city, with cobbled walking streets and Venetian houses and fortifications, along with Ottoman mosques and minarets.

13095965_10205628270818991_2150627818527963617_nWe pulled in stern to and picked up a laid line, right in the restaurant strip. Brilliant spot. Then it was off to explore the old town before Aran arrived later that evening. Aran was a friend of ours we met last year in Kasterlorizo on his boat and we’d caught up with him again in Eliat, Israel where he lives, when we did our road trip through Israel. He was sailing with us to the Ionians.

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Next morning it was up early and off to the Ionian Island of Kithera, 65nms away. Or so we thought!  As we made our way out of the bay, the winds gradually increased until they started to touch 45kts. Time to bail.

So we simply went out one bay and into the next, heading for Kissamos at the bottom of this bay. The harbour was three-quarters empty, a few ferries and day boats that went around to Gramvousa (an original destination until the Westerlies made it a no no), along with one other yacht.

And there we stayed for 3 nights waiting for the weather to clear up. One morning we got 61knots of wind, when we turned the instruments on. Reckon it may have been more during the night. Luckily the wind was pushing onto the wall so all was good.


Given we couldn’t go anywhere, we hired another car and drove to Palaiokhora, one really nice town on the South coast with an old castle on the point overlooking a decent harbour. Interestingly, the town had beaches on either side, being built on a headland. So we had the choice of beaches for lunch.


It’s a bit of a drive from North to South, an interesting drive, but not for Adan and I as we’d consumed a pizza each and slept it off whilst Dee drove onto Hania, as we felt we hadn’t given it justice in the day we were there. It was good to sit and people watch over a beer.


Next day, we had planned to hire mountain bikes and ride to Gramvousa on the West end of the island, but it was still blowing its mammary glands off, so we opted to keep the rental car and drive there instead. Such a beautiful bay, would have been great if the weather gods had smiled nicely at us and we’d got to sail there. It was a bit of an interesting drive there over a rather rocky road, followed by a 20 minute walk down to the beach in the wind.

Our next challenge was to find a relatively non-windy place for lunch, which we managed to do by going across to the next bay from Kissamos, where it was guarded by a bluff. And they had stuffed calamari and swordfish! The rest of the afternoon, we spent checking out the nice little bays and villages between Kissamos and Hania.

Miraculously, the wind had calmed right down the next morning as we pulled away from the dock. I say miraculously because the weather forecast was actually right.

And then it was really off to the Ionians.


Off on a Wet Safari

After a few days diving with Panorama doing day trips out of Hurghada, we realized we needed to get on a live aboard, otherwise we would leave not having seen the Red Sea that everybody raves about.
Dee was in “let’s scour the internet” mode, as she uncovered a last-minute deal of the Emperor Superior. Less than 600 euros for the week and it was only half full. Wow. The down side we burnt 4 nights accommodation in the Marriott (at 30 bucks a night) and had to change our flights back a couple of days. But well worth it.

We moved on board on Easter Friday night at 6pm and left heading North on Saturday morning after breakfast. Our first dive was at Dolphin House on Sharb el Erg reef. Nice easy dive to make sure everyone was okey dokey. No dolphins unfortunately, but plenty of nice fish and a very nice nudibranch.


This was the start of our routine of dive eat dive eat dive eat dive eat. Anna and Sergio (soon to be Mr. and Mrs Sergio) were our two dive masters and they were loads of fun.

The second dive in the afternoon was at the Barge at Guval Island. Again a shallow dive at 14 and a bit metres, off the back of the boat, but the life on the wreck was exceptional. Huge morays and I mean huge. The biggest of them all was George at over 2m long. Georgette was huge as well and they had a few cousins as well. Nice looking smaller morays as well as well as Lion fish and a rather ugly Scorpion Fish.

The night dive was at the same site and whilst the wreck was a little bit lacking in new interesting stuff, the reef system was teaming. We managed to see a Crocodile Fish, some nice nudiobranches, crabs, starfish and the highlight of the night – a Spanish Dancer. Brilliant.

Next morning we were up at 6am and off to ….Moller, for our first deep dive. We went off the Zodiac and down to 34m. Nice wreck but the vis wasn’t great. There was some good growth on the wreck and Sergio pointed out some interesting nudibranchs on the way up the mast.

12933158_10205485361286342_5395995655726080721_nBut the real wreck we had come to see was the Thistlegorm. Many say its in the best wreck on the planet and its certainly in my Top 3 (the other two being the Georges in Rabaul and the Japanese wreck in Gizo, Solomons). Our first dive on the Thistlegorm was around the sides, including a visit to one of the two locomotives that were on the seabed off to the side. Going back to the main wreck, we checked out where the bomb blew her to bits, with some shells and a tank upside down. We then checked out the propeller before finishing the dive on the deck. The second dive was very impressive.

12512411_10205485356806230_729613141088048647_nBy then, there was a raging current and we made our way down clinging to the line that Sergio had tied to the bollards. This was a penetration dive and we had great fun visiting all the holds, with lots of BSA Motor Bikes, trucks, aircrafts wings and rifles. There were two levels so we had lots to explore. It was only a 24m dive but we ended up chewing air in the current. Unfortunately a lot of my pictures weren’t very good as I used my flash when I shouldn’t have, and the reflections of all the particles in the water destroyed the photos. So no amazing photos of motorcycles in the hold. The next dive was a night dive on the Thistlegorm, an excellent setting for a night dive. And it didn’t disappoint. Lots of colourful life and some interesting fish. Our dive boat was attached to the Thistlegorm via 3 lines, 2 on the front bollards and one on the propeller axle where the bomb broke it open. We ended up going down and up this one, which was a little difficult to find in the dark. But the water was clear and we were able to spot it via torchlight a fair distance off. After the dive Sergio had to go down and untie all these lines, reversing the procedure he did when we got there.

12923186_10205488121595348_5525124378318171242_nNext day it was off to Ras Mohamed, a national park and another of the Famous Five. The first dive was at Shark Reef and the Jolanda. Ras Mohamed has got some of the best coral going and with the wonderful visibility, it makes for a great dive or four. There is no anchoring in Ras Mohamed so it’s a drop and drift dive with the zodiacs picking us up at the end. The Jolanda used to be a wreck but all that is left is some cargo, including believe it or not some toilets at about 12m. Interesting way to finish a dive. The next dive was a short motor along Ras Mahomed to Raz Zatar. This was one of the best wall dives I have done, beautiful clear water, nice coral and plenty of fish everywhere. The Gregorian Fans were massive and there were a few big pelagics floating by.

12321251_10205485341325843_1391543780121341921_nAfter the dive, we were told that we couldn’t go to Brothers, because of the 25kts winds. The Famous 5 became the Famous 4. Instead we made our way up past Sharm El Sheikh to the Tiran straits to dive the 3 Reefs there.


Thomas Reef was the first off the rack. There were boats everywhere, including quite a few day boats from Sharm. We got dropped off and picked up by the two zodiacs. The dive was good with lots of fish life including a couple of reef sharks and eagle rays, none of which I managed to see. The ride back to the mother ship was pretty chilly with the strong wind. The plus side is that there are a couple of rusting wrecks up on the reefs and we were able to visit one on the way back to the boat.

12931013_10205485266203965_4862294862691956605_nNot having to go to Brothers meant we were able to do another night dive – or so we thought. However when we checked the current, we realized we would end up in Sharm if we went. So we took the night off and drank some wine.

Next morning the wind was still up and it was cold getting into the wet suit. The boat had moved two reefs along to Jackson Reef, so at least we could start and end the dive on the boat rather than a cold and wet dingy ride. Another nice dive, the highlight being a turtle that swam by.


As usual, we had breakfast after our first dive and then a little nap as we headed back to Raz Mohamed to a dive site called Anemone City. Very aptly name as it had the biggest anemones ever. There were whole schools of anemone fish living in a single anemone. I was still chewing air like I eat chocolate cake – too fast. So I ended up being first back into the zodiac. Dee was skipping a few dives so I got to dive with Sergio and he’d wave me good-bye as I inflated my Surface Buoy for the boatman to pick us up. The rest of the divers would come up 10 minutes after me.

From here we moved around to the Dunraven wreck site. The Dunraven sank when the Captain went on a drinking binge following news that his first mate was sleeping with his wife – or so the story goes. Anyway it’s an interesting upside down 19th Century wreck that you can penetrate via a couple of holes in its side. Its not that big so the second half of the dive is up on the reef, where we saw a giant Napoleon fish and some more giant morays.

12417514_10205485355606200_7134090621089202898_nFor the night dive, we dove where we parked the boat around the corner from the Dunraven. Nice shallow night dive with some trevally who followed us looking to hunt in the light of our torches. Nice lion fish, a moray that was out and about and some interesting terrain.

After dinner, the Captain pointed South and we had a very rolly night heading down to the Salem Express, a car ferry wreck with a very tragic story. Over 1000 people died coming back from a Mecca pilgrimage when the Captain tried to take a shortcut on a stormy moonless night. It took us all night to get there in unexpected really windy conditions.
12439027_10205488121515346_1880440638636232186_nAnd it didn’t let up in the morning when we hopped into the zodiacs to find the wreck. Normally they tie the boat to the wreck but the swell and the wind meant we had to tie up on a reef that was a way away. So we needed to use the Zodiacs to find the wreck. Or try to find the wreck, as without GPSes on the Zodiacs and with a big swell running, we spent a good 30 minutes getting sprayed with salt water searching to find it. In the end, Sergio had to return to the mother ship to get better directions. Our adventure on the high seas ended successfully and it was a relief to get into the water and out of the wind. The wreck was on its side in 30m of water, the top being at 10m. We swam around the outside of the boat, visiting the propeller and then through the loading doors that sprang open when the boat hit the reef. We only went in a little way as the Egyptians consider it to be a sacred place given the large loss of life. We got some nice pictures of the (unused) lifeboats, masts and port holes.

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Back at the boat we headed for Panorama Reef, which had some nice corals and fish life but nothing special to report. After lunch we moved again and dove on Middle Reef, which was an interesting shallow dive those potato coral bommies with nice swim throughs. The night dive was at the same spot and that was really good. We descended right on top of a large moray that was swimming around looking for a meal. We then got followed around by a couple of Trevally, who hunted in our torchlight. The lion fish also got in on the act, which is a bit disconcerting to find one right next to you as you try to take a photo of something else. We also came across a Slipper Lobster and a giant Napoléon Wrasse asleep (well trying to) in a hole in the reef. I don’t think he was that impressed with all these divers rolling up to his front door taking photos. Then to top it all off, we had some neat squid swim past at the end of the dive.

12376844_10205488091594598_360613685536003512_nThe next morning, our last, we headed for Gifton Island for our 6.30am dive. Nice but nothing to write home about. The last dive (for us) was Gota Abu Ramada, which with the wind, had drawn a crowd. A couple of nice bommies rounded out the last of my 20 dives on the Emperor Superior, to add to the six I did with Panorama as day trips.


Whilst I love diving and it was great to be in the water doing all those dives, I have got to say that the Red Sea didn’t really live up to its hype for me. I expected a lot more big fish and I didn’t sea a single shark or dolphin. This would have changed if we’d been able to dive Brothers of course, so that was a bit disappointing. On the plus side, the water on most of the dives was clear and the visibility was very good (but I’ve had similar or better elsewhere). The Thistlegorm was one of the best wrecks I’ve dove on so that a plus. The biggest plus was Anna and Sergio, a lovely Spanish couple who really looked after us and worked their buts off doing it. The food was good and the crew were great but the boat needed some TLC.

12938320_10205485373326643_2614930615034040174_nThe last dive of the day was the wreck that lay in Hurghada Harbour, a Russian made minesweeper that was sunk by the Israelis in the 60’s. We couldn’t go because we were flying the next day, so we had a wine or three whilst everyone else went down to 30m. The others soon caught up as we sat on the top deck and enjoyed the Sunshine with a group of Poms, a Hungarian, a South Korean, 3 Spanish and a couple of Swedes. The boat caters for 25 divers, we had a nice group of 12 on board, which made things very comfortable. We had our last dinner on board and headed off to the Marina for some more drinks. By 10pm I was done and dusted so off to bed I went. Dee and the rest carried on in my absence upstairs on the top deck as I slept like a baby.

Next morning it was up at 7am for breakfast and then off to the airport – Egypt done and dusted!

Back to a Sailing Life

Having stayed in Egypt slightly longer than we’d planned, it was time to get our skates on and get La Mischief ready to roll in only two days. My first job was to fix the toilet, now that I’d managed to get my Jabsco servicing kit through Turkish customs for an exorbitant fee. Next time, I’ll use normal post, rather than UPS as Turkish customs don’t tend to worry about packages in the post (I did this with my Watermaker winteriser pack I had sent from France).

This first job was an abject failure as the chopper I’d left soaking in a bucket disappeared to the bottom of the marina. Bummer. We quickly arranged for a new one to be purchased by Barbara from West Marine in California – to be delivered personally when Joe and Barbara arrived in a week. Luckily we had a couple of spare working heads on board.

Next job was more of a success. The three new batten cars that I bought in Perth were fitted successfully, although the third batten car keeps pulling out under the stress of the square rig.

Dee had taken our broken Raymarine Autopilot head back to the USA and had scored big time, getting a free replacement even though the unit was out of warranty. This was after the guys in Gocek tried to sell us a new unit. Thanks Raymarine.

The rest of the jobs were largely putting back stuff we’d stored inside for the winter and getting the boat somewhat clean. The marina at Karpaz was cheap but any services we would have liked done were not. We looked at lifting La Mischief and getting her bottom painted and top and sided waxed and polished, but the costs were pretty steep so we gave that idea away. I’d previously looked at getting the engines serviced but I’d quickly worked out this was a bad idea so my cunning plan was to sail back to Gocek and get Sanli to organise it.

Jobs somehow always get done in time and off we went. Ozge, a friend of ours from the Marina, came along to help us out, and the 3 of us got going about 10am after we managed to complete our formalities and leave our berth. We’d tossed up a few destinations and in the end we settled for Kas, 230nm away. When you leave the Turkish Republic of Cyprus, you need to go to Turkey as Turkey is the only country in the world to recognize the Turkish Republic of Cyprus. After Turkey, you can go wherever you like.

We arrived in Kas at 8am having motored for 2 days on a glassy sea. We called in to the old harbour (rather than the new marina) and were met by an agent, who for 200 turkish lira, checked us in. Then it was off to catch up with our friends from Kas. It didn’t take us long to catch up with Smiley, still as useful as ever. He organised a diver to help with our awful looking bottom, it was a complete ecosystem down there. We got our gas bottled swapped and did a few other chores before catching up with Mutlu at his beach bar. Then it was off for a great meal at Smiley’s, which felt wonderfully familiar.

Next morning it was up at the crack of dawn, Ozge feeling the effects of the Raki from the night before was moving noticeably slower. The wind was still non-existent so we stopped and anchored off the beach at Olu Deniz and had a look at the lagoon.

Then it was onto Gocek for our date with Sanli and his team. All four engines received a service, our decks were waxed and polished, our stereo was replaced by a Fusion unit I picked up in Perth along with replacement speakers for the back (they were falling apart after a couple of years) and new waterproof Fusion speakers for the front installed under the eyebrow.


As Sanli was getting this all organized, I was putting together the toilet – lucky me – I always get the good jobs. Dee meanwhile had picked up Barbara and Joe and was showing them all the sights around Gocek – Saklikent Gorge, Dalyman River Tombs and Pinara. Meanwhile Ozge said his goodbyes and caught a plane back to Ercan via Istanbul.

Then it was off sailing once more, first to Fethiye to check out of Turkey and then to Rhodes to check into Greece. We left Fethiye in zero knots of wind and ended up in Rhodes in 40 knots of wind, right on the nose of cause. Welcome to windy Greece. We checked into the largely empty Rhodes Marina for 57 euros a night, too late to check into Greece so we had a quiet night on the boat. Next morning it was a 2km walk into town to visit the Port Police, Customs and Immigration, before checking out the old town with its wonderful castle and windy walking streets. Still one of my favourite destinations.

13055421_10205628083294303_4646564660525080657_nThen it was off to one of our other favourite destinations – Lindos. We had a great sail down the coast, scooting along on a nice reach. Joe and Barbara were loving it. We got to Lindos in the late afternoon to find a couple of yachts there – different to the crowded anchorage we found last time. We got a prime spot right off the beach on the sandy bottom. No wrapping our anchor chain around any rocks this time.

12986983_10205567433018084_2204062510547831910_nAnchored up, we dingied ashore and walked up to the castle, which had already shut for the day. Then we headed back down into the town and stopped off at our favourite Captains Bar. Saves (Greek for Steve) was there to great us and we reminisced about a few late nights in his bar last season. Then we headed off to check out the amphitheater and across to Ay Apostoli, an enclosed bay on the other side of Lindos where I had my first Greek Mojito of the season – oh how I’ve missed them. Dinner at Stephanies (but not on the roof – too cold) completed a pretty good day.

12993346_10205567463378843_7316115161565518783_nNext day, it was up to the castle on the top of the headland, breathtakingly beautiful. The girls were keen to go shopping so I retreated to a nice beachside café for some blogging and photo uploading, which takes time in Greece given the piddley amount of bandwidth. Back on the boat, it was time for our first swim of the season in the beautifully clear water of Lindos. An afternoon relaxing before we pulled anchor and headed south towards Kasos, on the way to Crete.

13062390_10205627895289603_1156963486843798402_nWith 4 of us on board, the night went quickly as the winds died and we motored all the way. We arrived in Kasos at about 9am and had to administer mouth to mouth to see if we could possibly solicit any life out of the place. We pronounced it dead as a door nail and decided to make our own life. We bought fresh fish from a local fisherman and had it cooked at Mylos Restaurant overlooking the bay. Two other cats had pulled in and we met up at the restaurant to breath some life back into the town. One cat was Canadian, the other English and they had both been wintering in Crete at Agios Nikolaos, and had good things to say about it.

With another night sail coming up, we had to curb the wine and beer, in time to sober up for our 6pm departure.

The sail to Crete was pretty uneventful, with flat seas and what wind there was, was on the nose most of the way. We managed to get to our destination ahead of sunrise, so we floated around until 6.30am and then went into Spinalonga.

But that’s another story.