We Are Quite the Social Set

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We had another nice sail to Kas – albeit with the wind on the nose. But hey, you get there eventually and we get some bonus miles tacking along.

We decided against going and anchoring off the marina this time. Instead we headed for Bayindir Limani and just took the dingy the one and a half miles across to the old port when we needed to get to town. Bayinder is really beautiful and Kas is really quite accessible from there. Best of both worlds.

But I am getting ahead of myself. We picked out a spot next to a Gulet called Ali Baba 10 and started to drop anchor, only to hear the gullet captain suggest we may not want to park there as they were planning a party that night. Did someone say party?

He then went on to invite us over saying there was a heap of Aussies on board. It was not a hard decision really. Ewa could do with a dose of young people and I wasn’t adverse to the idea (at all).

We had a swim and met Aussie Milo and his friends who were some of the paying passengers. We had dinner and headed over and found we were a little too early so we got treated to another meal sitting with the captain, Mutlu and his two crew. Then we rejoined the passengers when they had finished dinner, had a quick game of Uno, and then the dancing started. And boy could the captain dance. Ewa and the Captain tore up the floor. The cook was fun too in his oversized glasses and funny hat. The third crew was a guy who everyone called Turkish Delight (which he came up with), one cool Turkish Dude. Anyway the Aussies on board decided I should be called Craig so Craig I was.

The captain invited us to follow him back to Kekova for a session at Smugglers Bar, but we declined and spent another night at Bayinder. Instead we said we’d see him at Kalkan and tag along with him to Fethiye.

Next day, we bid farewell to our new found gullet friends and headed into Kas to sort out our Internet access. I decided on a second SIM card for the 3G router so if we ran out of credit on one card we could just switch across to the second.

We also found a postcard for Ewa to send to her Kiwi guy who is built like a brick shithouse (or to quote Men at Work “6 foot four and full of muscle”). If you happen to read this, you need to do some serious wooing of this beautiful young lady. Now that I’ve severely embarrassed Ewa I can move on.

After our morning trip into Kas, it was time to relax. Plus we’d forgotton to take the rubbish into Kas, so we hopped in the dingy again and headed for a nearby restaurant. The turks are amazing, we didn’t even have time to ask before the guy at the bar whipped our rubbish away.

Several EFES beers were consumed whilst Ewa and I built our list of top five bikinis on the beach. She was doing it with her eye for fashion, I was just doing it because I’m shallow and I’m a boy! Still, it was a pleasant way to spent a lazy afternoon.

We eventually got bored with that bar and checked out the next. More bikini spotting! Starting speaking with Husan who was one of the bar staff there. He is Turkish but also has an importation business in Scotland, where he went 8 years ago without a word of English.

Husan said he was going fishing after work so we invited him to bring some fish to La Mischief and we would cook it on the BBQ. He arrived about 9pm with supermarket fish and a mate just as our supermarket fish that we had decided to cook was ready. The four of us had a fun night chatting and drinking beer and raki, the local Turkish firewater.

Next morning, it was off to Kalkan, where we said we would rejoin our Gulet captain and his new guests.

It was another nice sail around to Kalkan, tacking all the way. Kalkan has a very small marina and anchoring outside this was not an option. So we headed over to Yesilkoy Limani, which was a beautiful spot with lots of clear water. We anchored in 5m and just swung on anchor as it was too windy to get a line ashore.

Next morning, we pottered into Kalkan, about a 2nm dingy trip, and had a nice walk around. It’s a picturesque little town, with views down to the small harbor and lots of high end fashion stores. We found a neat little coffee shop for a milkshake, followed by a neat little bar for a beer.

We stayed two nights in Yesilkoy so that we could rendezvous with our captain who duly turned up at 5pm and parked up right next to us. More Australian guests to banter with, this time from Noosa. The crowd were a bit more subdued this time so no dancing L.

Next morning it was up at 5am to follow our captain to some places that Rod didn’t even know about!

A Bit of Royal Mischief

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Kalekoi was just as good the 2nd time.

After our first full sail after the mainsail had been fixed, we arrived about 6pm, just in time for a delightful dinner on shore on a picturesque spot over the water.

Next day, it was time to check out the castle and the village.  it turned out to be another epic photo session with Ewa, who seems to take better photos than me just with her iPhone. We managed to get to the field of sarcophagi  this time and it was interesting wandering through an ancient graveyard. The sarcophagus’ lids are shaped like an upside down boat as most of these people were fishermen and this signified the end of their fishing days.

Then it was off to check out the sunken city and find another bay. We headed west towards Poleos Buku and passed a beautifully restored luxury yacht called Nahlin. Worth googling, we quickly found out it was owned by Mr Vacuum Cleaner, aka James Dyson, and is one of the last of three large steam yachts constructed in the UK. It’s also the largest British-owned super yacht at 91 metres, and was ranked 36th in a 2013 survey of the world’s 100 biggest yachts. There you go.

Much, much more interestingly though was the fact that it was chartered by King Edward VIII and used by him and Mrs. Wallis Simpson to get up to some rather serious Mischief (oops, did I start that with a capital letter). First thing he did was rip out the library so he could fit more grog on board. This was evidently the trip (to the Adriatic) where the press got wind of this royal mischief and soon after he abdicated.

After our dalliance with history, we decided the bay wasn’t much chop and it was time for some downwind sailing to the other end of Kekova Roads and Gokkaya Limani. Sailing on the inside passage was delightful and in no time at all we were at our destination for the night.

Safely anchored, we hopped in the dingy for a bit of a sightsee up the creek and into the pirate cave. This time there was a gullet there so we let him go first and he popped his whole nose inside. We dingied in around his so we were both inside. Wow.

Next day after a morning paddle board, it was up anchor and off to Kas.

For photos of Kekova see https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10201870796604484.1073741921.1620379103&type=1&l=796b84f928

And Back We Go From Whence We Came

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With fridge stocked, we said our goodbyes and left Kemmer about 3pm and headed back to Phaselis. With 5 on board, Ewa, Myself, Eric (the autopilot), Little Eric (the remote control for Eric) and Rod (the cruising guide), it felt good to be back on the sea. We dropped anchor a few hours later and settled in for the night.

We needed to get to Fineke by Wednesday, so I decided we would spend our time at Olympos rather than doing the ruins at both Phaselis and Olympos. I was also put off by Mike saying someone had climbed onto a yacht at Phaselis – all very suspicious.

Olympos turned out to be as spectacular as it was the first time. It was a great place to wander around with Ewa, as she was a better photographer than I was and it was fun to chase good shots together. We spend half an hour trying to take the money shot of a spectacular blue dragonfly. In the end, I’m afraid to say she got the better shot. Her dad thought it was photoshopped – it was that good.

Back on the boat, it was time to introduce Ewa (pronounced Eva) to stand up paddle boarding, which she managed quite well for a new comer. Then it off to get an anchorage close to Finike for the night so we could go in the next day and get our repairs done.

Are we got round the cape we got hit with 30kts right on the nose. We bashed into it a bit but without a mainsail it was pretty horrible. So we pretty soon called it quits and consulted Rod. Rod told us about Cavus Limani and it turned out to be a good recommendation.

Next morning, we hauled anchor and headed for Finike Marina. All our parts had arrived, and we found an excellent sail maker so we had a very productive stop getting our dingy winch, shower sump pump and bilge pump operational again. We repacked the ball bearings in all of the batten cars and I’ve decided not to let the mainsail freefall when taking it down as Vicsail showed me. Nowadays I ease it down in a more controlled fashion.

It was get to sail again, even it meant tacking all the way against the wind. We got some reefing practice early as we left Finike bound for Kalekoi. It was fun sailing and we sailed pretty well all the way to the start of Kekova Roads. Ewa was busy sleeping and didn’t wake up until we got pretty much to the crusader castle. She had one of those jaw dropping moments as we motored up to our anchorage.

All my Olympos photos are at https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10201909126122698.1073741922.1620379103&type=1&l=498f53f18b

Happy Hour

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wpid-wp-1404739797594.jpegAs we drew closer to Kemer, we marveled (is that the word) at the touristy aspects that were everywhere. The pretend pirate ships intermixed with the paragliders pulled along by the ugliest speed boa
ts you are ever likely to see. Then hotel after beach front hotel with take a number deck chairs lining the beach front.

We’d heard various reports about Kemer, a Russian tourist mecca, and so we were fully prepared for ultra tacky. As always, its wasn’t like that and we were pleasantly surprised.

But what was really good was the marina crowd. Albeit they were all packing up and going home but Mike and Corrine from Switzerland made us feel really welcome and invited us to Happy Hour, where we met the rest of the United Nations of Cruising – South Africa, UK, Germany, Wales, Belgium and a Turkish Dentist – they all kept me entertained during my 3 day visit.

It was here I said goodbye to Jo, who was off to the UK and then onto the Tour de France. We’d had a great time together, seen some sights and made some miles, so it was sad to see her go. I suppose that’s the nature of cruising – you meet great people, you become friends in no time at all and then you say your goodbyes. Then one day, you see them again on the water and you are best friends again.

My first chore was to get the mainsail batten cars fixed and so off I wandered to the Technical Department. A guy came and had a look and then his boss came back with a quote for 323 Euro, for what mounted to 2-3 hours work. I said I’d pay for 2 hours – he said he’s not a factory and he’s providing a “service” which will take a day. We agreed to disagree and so no mainsail until Fineke. I’d heard rumours about getting things done in Kemer and Mike pretty well confirmed it. So great marina if you want to have a fun time, but not so good if you want anything fixed.

I had a couple of days on my own in the marina before my next crew, Ewa flew in from Poland, via Berlin. Allan and I had met Ewa in Spain last year and we put her up for a night on La Mischief so she knew the boat already.

One good thing about marinas is that you can leave the aircon on 24/7 and I think Ewa appreciated this as it was pretty hot out in the sun. But there wasn’t much time to enjoy the aircon as we went in search of the weekly markets, which are on the Monday in Kemmer and are pretty damn good.

Stocked up with fresh food, we headed back to the boat and on our way for our overnight stop at Phaselis as we backtracked first south…then west….then north.

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Roman Ruin Time Again

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We were quite excited to have a look at Finike as lots of cruisers had said good things about the place. The marina turned out to be really nice but the town was a major disappointment. They had tried to do it up, but all they managed to do was make it more tacky.
It did however have some good tradesmen at reasonable prices and we got the shower sump pump, dingy winch and one of the bilge pump sensors diagnosed and parts ordered from Istanbul (to be picked up on way back). More boat bucks.
We managed to get away about 3.30pm . We headed across the bay and around the corner to a nice beach.
We were right on track for beer o’clock when bummer, the mainsail got stuck, 3/4 of the way down. Luckily there was no wind so going up the mast was a lot easier than last time. We got the sail down with a bit of silicon spray and some gentle persuasion and decided it must be a lubrication issue. So on went more silicon spray.
Mainsail in lazy bag, we finally anchored and Beer o’clock was just reward for climbing the mast.
Next morning we had a great swim around the bay and headed off for ancient Olympos. We motor sailed along the coast against a 0.5-1 kt current and got there at lunchtime. We anchored outside the roped off swim area and i donned the water proof back bag and paddled in with Jo swimming to shore.
The beach was beautiful, albeit stoney,  with a freshwater stream running into the sea. Olympos is just behind the beach and we wandered up to it only to find a ticket booth wanting 5th entry fee. So it was back to the boat on the paddle board to get some more money plus a few other things we forgot.
Then it was back along the deep shaded valley that runs up from the sea. Olympos was founded by Rhodes in about the 2nd century BC and had another upturn in property market values when the Romans moved into the neighbourhood. The last bit of ancient stuff happened when the Genovese build a castle high on the hill. The place is very pretty and it took us longer than expected to wander through the ruins.
By this stage we were getting hungry so we stopped at the hippy inspired restaurant amongst the shady trees and gobbled down some Turkish pancakes.  Nothing to write home about (wait a minute – I just did!) but can now say I’ve tasted them.
Back on the boat we back tracked a couple of miles to Port Genovese and found an anchorage amongst the gulets with sufficient swing room to feel comfortable. Jo was busying herself for another phone interview so I went for a swim and checked the anchor. Back on the boat I saw another gulet come in and drop his anchor way out as they do and then back into shore really close to our anchor. I was a bit peeved that he may have laid his anchor chain over ours and swam out again to check (in fact he had laid it over Sun Dancers who were further out that us.
Then it was off to check out the bay on the paddle board – a productive exercise as I came across Sami (Davis Jnr) and friends and sat down and drank Turkish Tea. Sami was a professional captain who had come out on his day off and we had a great yarn.
Back at La Mischief with Jo’s interview over, we had Trevor and Yvonne from Sun Dancer over for sun downers – a lovely English couple who were good for a ribbing about cricket and the world cup.
Just as we’d gone to bed, the wind changed and we had to get up again as we swung dangerously close to our errant gullet. I was kicking myself that I was more concerned about crossed anchors than swing room. So Jo got her first night sail!!! as we shifted into the middle of the bay – well out of range of any gullet mayhem.
Next morning we set off motoring to Phaselis, another ancient Roman town. Rod told us to use a trip line because of our the rubble from the ancient Roman breakwaters, but looking down we could see there was no real need.
Phaselis is set on a beautiful peninsular, between two equally beautiful bays. It too was founded by colonists from Rhodes in the 7th Century BC but the ruins were largely Roman  and Byzantine. Hadrian’s gate at the entrance of the street that runs from the North Bay to the South Bay was a highlight. It was once again a very pretty place with extensive ruins set amongst the pine trees. Unfortunately the Turks had put a car park right up against some very impressive aqueduct ruins. Whenever you see an aqueduct ruin you feel compelled to utter the now famous “What Have the Romans Ever Done for Us?” line from Life of Brian.
Ruined out once more, we pulled anchor and headed for Kemmer.

Of Crusader Castles and Sunken Cities

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The cruise around from Kas to Kokova Roads was very scenic. There are a couple of “holes in the wall” to get through and a few good looking bays along the way. There was a slight swell left over from the gale and the wind was a bit fluky as we past by several islands and headlands. We managed a bit of a sail along the way but still had the motors on for a couple of hours.

Kekova Roads is a long island, protecting a wonderful cruising area. As we passed through the last of the narrow passages that separated Kekova Roads from the mainland, we caught a glimpse of the crusader castle at KaleKoi. Stunning.

But first we needed to follow the gulet trail and motor along the very edge of Kekova Roads, sometimes as close as 20m to see the famous sunken city of Simena, the result of a severe earthquake in the 2nd century AD. We had to motor along as it is forbidden to anchor or swim here. Despite the earthquake, you can still make out steps and arches and bits of wall and we could look down into the water and see what remains of ancient walls. Fancinating stuff.

Next stop for us was Kalekoi and we needed to squeeze into a small anchoring area amongst the large gulets. We had 3 goes at trying to get enough swing room but these gullets seemed to set themselves at old angles to the wind so we gave up and tried to find a nearby anchorage.

Along the way we were treated with many turtles popping their heads up to say hello. 1.5nm away we found the perfect bay and as we rounded the corner 2 gullets cut inside us and raced to get the remaining anchorages.

So back we went for another shot at anchoring outside Kalekoi. This time we found all the gullets leaving so we had the choice of the anchorage. And this is where we stayed for 2 nights, watching a parade of gullets swing past the castle, as part of their follow each other around Turkish Disneyland whistle stop tour.

We found there were two types of sounds coming from these gulets – either commentary (in everything but english),  or the single variation doof doof music, for the less culturally aware crowd. The dress code was either overdressed Japanese or the underdressed Euro crowd. Very entertaining people watching, starting about 9am and finishing about 4pm.

This content procession of gulets made swimming and paddle boarding somewhat challenging, but both were an excellent way of checking out the turtles.

The castle was the main highlight of Kalekoi and off I went to check it out. The town was a bit of a rabbit warren of thin walk ways criss-crossing the side of the hill but I eventually found the right combination of tracks and made it to the entrance where I paid my 10TL and wandered in.

Other than the castle walls, there wasn’t much left – a true renovators delight. The view was fantastic and you could see why the Crusaders put down a deposit on this patch of land to build their dream castle, with million dollar views up and down the approaching seaways. Looking around I could see a field of sarcophagi off to the side. Off to the other side next to the harbor in the shallows there’s also a single sarcophagi – which made for a brilliant photo opportunity later.

The castle was surrounded by Roman Ruins and within its outer grounds there was the cutest little Amphitheatre you ever did see.

And to top it all off there was a couple of Lycian Tombs set into the cliff face above the town. What a pretty little place to anchor up for a couple of days.

“Couple of days” over, we ventured around the corner to Ucagiz, a quaint little Turkish fishing village that is now the base for the multitude of Gulets that do the Tour de Kekova. We anchored off yet another field of sarcophagi. You really did feel like you were in the mist of history.

We went ashore and had a few beers at Hassan’s, one of the local harbourside restaurants. The proprietor was quite a character in his chef’s black hat and proclaimed himself to be quite famous in these parts. We had a great chat to his family as we drank beer and ate a plate of mixed entrees. Lovely way to spend an afternoon.

It was however not the greatest place to spend a night. Ucagiz is in a slow enclosed bay with good holding, but its quite still and hot and the mozzies and flies were difficult to deal with.

It was about here that we finished Breaking Bad and switched to House of Cards. Movie nights were proving popular.

We were quite glad to leave the next morning and head off to Gokkaya Limani, about 4nm away. Gokkaya is a series of miniature fjord-like channels with a lovely anchorage at the head of a creek.

What a great place to swim and paddleboard. We swam round a small island and then off to the sight of a disused restaurant/disco. Then Jo wanted to go further so I went back to get the paddleboard, whilst she swam to some ruins.

Then down went the dingy and we went in search of that elusive Turtle photo. We managed to find a couple and with a bit of patience managed to get a few shots as they stuck their head up. Not perfect but okay.

We then did a circumnavigation of one of the islands and found the smugglers cave that we drove the dingy into. Pretty cool.

We checked out Andraki as a possible night time anchorage but it was just a gulet jetty and not much else to recommend it, so we pushed onto Finike. We had a broken dingy winch and a shower sump pump that was shorting out so a marina berth was in order. And it was so dam hot, we were looking forward to breaking out the aircon and having a decent nights sleep. So 75 euros later we had ourselves a marina berth.

For photos of Kekova Roads, please see https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10201870796604484.1073741921.1620379103&type=1&l=796b84f928

Gale Warning

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I thought I’d go out in sympathy for all you guys in Perth by drumming up a bit of similar wind. 45kts to be precise. There was quite a swell coming down the harbour towards La Mischief, whose anchor was well dug in.

Friday is market day in Kas so I left La Mischief to it and went for supplies. The Markets in Kas are some of the best along the coast – fantastic – lots of cheap fruit and veggies, cheese etc. as well as a lot of the stuff you’d find in the bazaars of Istanbul. Stuck will the food side of things and headed back to the boat with everything we needed including decent Potatoes – something quality control had rejected up until Kas.

Back on the boat I tried to do some jobs but it was just too rough and I was feeling queasy with my head down trying in vain to find the short in the shower sump pump that was tripping out. I did however find the Turkish State Meteorological Service website (at http://www.dmi.gov.tr/en-US/marine-marinas.aspx), which I think is the best site as far as Turkish weather goes.

In the end I was glad to get off the boat and meet Jo for a drink at the marina bar. Made the call to eat on land as cooking on the boat was not recommended. Mind you, drinking and eating on land was also interesting. The marina bar was being buffered  as we sat and watched things being blown over in all directions. Met an IT Project Manager from Barcelona at the bar and we invited her on board for a few days. Must have been the 6am start that put her off, as she was a no show.

So off the two of us set to Kekova Roads, another of Turkey’s cruising gems.

The First Dolphins of the Season

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It was good to leave the brilliant cruising grounds of Fethiye Korfezi knowing that we would be back when we pick up Michael and Elaine from there (Fethiye) and can stick around for a while if the hot weather doesn’t force us further north.

We got up and left reasonably early (for us) and headed out into a light breeze. We motored for the first few hours with the light wind right up our bum. The 360 rotations on the AWA gauge amused Jo no end.

The wind gradually picked up and we were able to sail. I procrastinated with idea of trying out the geneker but was glad I didn’t as the wind gradually built past 25 kts. It was still up our bum so this kept the Apparent Wind Speed down and we jybed our way along the coast. We were borderline needing a reef but just managed to avoid it.

The entrance into Kas marina seems to take forever – not one of its strong points. But as we got closer I looked over the side and saw a dolphin splash. We raced up the front (and then back again to get the camera) before being entertained for 10 minutes as the 2 dolphins rode our bow. They were a lot bigger than those we had previously seen in the Med – more like the size of WA dolphins.

We were zipping along touching 8kts and were just thinking of dropping the sails, when the wind suddenly picked up to 45kts. We quickly jibed and then headed up into the wind and dropped the sails as quick as we could. There was no training Jo whilst all that went on.

Heart racing, we motored into the harbour and anchored off the marina at the far end. Just picked a spot in the middle with plenty of swinging room and down went 65m of chain. Which will do me right for a couple of days.

I dropped Jo off on one of the marina pontoons and was promptly told off by the marina staff for bringing the dingy into the marina. Jo thought they wanted me to shift La Mischief so I went back to the boat and radioed in. No, it was just the dingy that needed shifting.

That’s going to make going to the bar difficult!

So back in the dingy and off to the rocks where the marina staff suggested I tie up. It was a bit of a scramble up the rocks and through the bushes to the road, but do-able when sober and in daylight.

It was a 10 minute walk around to the bars at the marina and once there found that Australia was playing Holland at the World Cup. Unlike the 6-1 victory the Hockey guys had at their world cup, the soccer guys had an admirable defeat.

By this stage it was getting dark and sober was under threat as well, so I decided to trek back to the dingy and bring it around to the marina. It was 9.30 at this stage – surely the Marina guys had gone home. Surely was wrong again and there he was, Marina Guy was waiting for me. But this time I had charm on my side, courtesy of the 3 or so Efes beers that were enhancing my charm factor immeasurably (well, I thought so anyway).

Both Charm and I lucked onto the fact that the bar I had nominated belonged to the marina guy’s friends from Istanbul – so it looked like I was in. Marina guy was taking no chances though, he drove me in the 90m along the broad walk in his golf buggy to just outside his mates bar. It turned out to be a good night. We started with the price of Alcohol in Turkey (highly taxed but still cheaper than Oz) and moved onto why foreigners are avoiding Turkey because of the trouble further south in Syria as well as rioting in Turkey. Interesting to get a locals perspective.

Then I had a chat to a couple of Pommy guys who where heading back home for the summer as it was just too hot for them. I got to admit it is pretty hot – its 36 degrees in here as I write this – which is after all pretty hot for a cold weather Pom. Evidently the thing to do is to leave now and come back in August/September for another shot.

Next day, it was in to town to check out Kas. First stop was Turkcell, where I found out that the Government stops all SIM cards from working if they are not installed in a phone sold in Turkey – hence why mine had suddenly decided it didn’t have a valid SIM. To avoid this you have to register them with the Government for 160TL ($80). I decided to go back to what I did in other countries and buy a prepaid WIFI router. They’s a trick for young players.

And that’s what I’m using to write this blog.

For photos of Kas, see https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10201860337863022.1073741920.1620379103&type=1&l=6d3a621ac5

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Snakes Alive

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The Venice of Turkey, the turquoise coast, what more can I add to help describe the beauty of the Lycian Coast except simply stunning! It reminds me a bit of the Whitsunday Islands, with massive pine covered hill sides dropping down into clear idealic water. There seems to be a constant backdrop of mountains to complete the picture.

The cruising grounds of Fethiye Korfezi are littered with a plethora of great anchorages. You could get lost in here for months. Its definitely worth a week or two. On the west side of Fethiye Korfezi is Skopea Bay, which is enclosed by a chain of islands that provides great shelter.

We entered through a narrow gap in the islands and chose Ruin Bay as our first stop, and we were just blown away with the sheer beauty of the place, a unique mixture of physical beauty and Turkish exoticism.

Once safely on anchor with a line back to the shore, it was off for a swim – first along the coast then off to a small island. On the way out to the island, we swam above a large turtle about 5m below us. Magical. Jo’s a good long distance swimmer so I set my self a task to keep up and not embarrass myself. Well, not too much anyway!

Back on the boat, it was time to adopt the philosophy of “when in Rome do as the Romans do” so I dove in and cooked my Mediterranean Snapper Bake as per Allrecipes.com. In the process I soon discovered that the 3 large tins of tomato was in fact not quite what they appeared – I had inadvertently bought tomato paste instead of tomato pieces (what are we going to do with it all???). To add to my woes we couldn’t get black olives in the supermarket, so I had to settle for green stuffed ones. But even with these impediments I still managed a tick of approval, which was pretty good given the expertise of the judging panel.

Next morning, after a bit of a lie in, it was up and into the water once again. We decided to swim the other way towards the ruins this time. Along the way we found a swing rope and revisited our childhood by swinging out over the water and letting go. Then we swam into the ruins, which we were able to do as they are half underwater – pretty cool. The water was so clear and it’s temperature was right in the middle of perfect. Heaven. We kept going for a while and ended up returning to the boat 50 minutes later for breakfast. Felt pretty good about that.

After breakfast, we were sitting around drinking tea (after all I had a Pom on board) and a couple of Aussies swam by our boat from a Guluk and we of course invited them on board for a chat, primarily so they could inflict some more Australianisms on Jo. They didn’t disappoint as we had a great laugh (apologies for my crap skill at remembering names). They were on board a tourist gullet – just them and 12 other Germans – not necessary the best time to be reading a historical novel on Adolf Hitler or indeed the Book Thief, and certainly not a good time to be playing some sort of WW2 fighter pilot game on your iPad. We also got some insight into the age of the Rex airlines pilots who flew them to Sydney who look so young that they are evidently “waiting for puberty” with the hosties referring to them as the “flying fetuses”.

Political incorrectness over, it was time to head for Gocek for a look around. Gocek was 7nm down the bay through some of the most magnificent cruising grounds in the Mediterranean – and probably the world. Gocek is a combination of 5 marinas and a town that has grown up around these marinas – nothing real signs of anything else.

Still it was very pleasant and we managed to find some more icetrays, some drink bottles and a nice pair of thongs (Australian vernacular) that were better than my broken Havanas. We’d stopped and had Turkish Tea with the shop keeper and he told us business was very bad, with no many foreigners spending any money.

We decided to eat on shore and had a great lunch – Halloumi Salad and Florentine Crepes, along with a couple of Efes beers, under the shade of some trees on the broadwalk. It had a bit of a feel of Mykonos about it, but without the crowds.

Then it was back to the boat and off back up the bay. Our plan was to stop off at Tomb Bay and see the Tombs (duh!) before heading back to Ruin Bay where we had spotted a restaurant with a jetty we could tie up to, so we could merely stumble back to the boat.

Jo had a phone interview so we timed our arrival into Tomb Bay to fit in with that. But when we got there we found a simply stunning bay with a restaurant, that also came with its own jetty, so we hastily changed our plans, mid anchoring. Back went the shore rope and out came the fenders. Jo had to report in 5 minutes late for her interview citing the somewhat novel excuse of berthing delays, whilst we got ourselves organized and attached to the jetty.

The guy from the restaurant suggested that we time our arrival around the wasps, by arriving at 7.30pm so we could order and eat by 8pm when the sun went down and the wasps disappeared. We sort of followed his timetable and sat down with a bit of charcoal burning on our table to keep them away. Never seen wasps used as a sort of selling point before quite like that.

There’s a certain sort of sameness about Turkish food so thank goodness for the view. Wine is also expensive (60-70TL a bottle), so we settled on drinking their excellent Efes beer. We were both pretty knackered after a long day of swimming, sailing and exploring so we sort of bombed out and hit the sack.

Next morning, we set ourselves the task of walking up to the tombs. There were two sets and after a while we found the second set (which we mistook for the first). They were set high up on the hill side into the side of a cliff and the views from way up there were to die for. We then set off for the second set, but never did find them (because we already had if you get my drift). We came across an ancient olive grove instead and eventually gave up and started to head back. We eventually made our way down to a dry creek bed and decided to follow that back to a beach near to our boat.

And then Jo screamed. She was in front and came across a rather large snake that took fright and headed down the creek – unfortunately the same way that we were heading. It was her first encounter in the wild and my first since the Kimberley’s on Camelot. We decided to skirt round the side of the creek, avoiding the large rock that our new-found friend had taken refuse under. That got the heart rate going and it was a relief to get back to the boat and out of the bush. Breakfast and a quick swim and then it was off to have a look at Fethiye, a 3 hour sail away.

We had parts of a good sail, with some of the islands doing interesting things to the wind. Around 2pm, the wind started to pick up and we opened the sailing instruction book to the chapter entitled “Reefing” and put the 2nd reef in, which was just as well as the wind got up to 29kts. The anchoring in Fethiye was quite good, and we dropped the dingy in and had a lazy afternoon drinking Rose and publishing blogs at one of the waterfront bars. Never did make it into town proper.

Next morning we leave for a 6 hour sail up to Kas so Jo can spent a couple of nights with the skipper from her previous boat. And I can take a breath and get some bits and pieces done.

For my photos of Fethiye Korfezi, please see https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10201852714352439.1073741919.1620379103&type=1&l=c68df1ae27

Off Sailing

~ stull61 ~ 1 Comment

Our first afternoon on the water was quite casual. We motored round the island and found a good place to anchor amongst the gulets. We dropped in about 20m of water quite close to shore and settled in for the night. We went for a swim to test out our masks and snorkel but we were both a bit knackered so it was a short swim. The wind dropped away to nothing and we sat outside eating Jo’s beautiful seafood curry and drinking a celebratory Rose (or 2 or 3 or …), our poison of choice in this hot weather. Then we talked and talked and talked before retiring to our respective bedrooms.

Next morning it was up around 7.30am for another Jo speciality, a menamen, which turned out to be just the repair job that my somewhat fragile body required. You can see I was being spoiled rotten.

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After consulting the weather once again, we decided we would make some miles and get to the Lycian Coast proper and the cruising grounds around Gocek (pronounced Go Check – the subject of some dubious Jo humour, which matches my own lame version).

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But as always, the wind persistently sat right on our nose so motoring was the order of the start of the day. Eventually we got lucky and got enough angle to go sailing in 10-15 knots of wind. We cracked 6kts of boat speed, even with about a 1kt of current against us – I was back in heaven. Rounding Kurdoglu Burnu, we were struck by a gorgeous large bay with sailing yacht darting back and forth. We headed into the bay and dropped the sails before heading through a narrow gap of 200m into an inner bay and onto Ruin Bay, which Mr. Heikell describes as “The setting in this tiny cove is exquisite, with thick pine covering the slopes right down to the water’s edge, engulfing everything except the ruins.” He really needs to do better as it was much more stunning than this!!!

We dropped anchor in about 20m of water ad tied up to some bollards that they had installed on the rocks, which was really nice of them. Our first stern to of the season.